Roman history has always interested me. I love the idea of this complex and advanced society filled with bustling cities, philosophers and politicians thriving so long ago. Even more fascinating is that one of these cities could be destroyed and forgotten within just a few generations. It’s this fascination that pulls me towards visiting the Italian city of Pompeii.
History of Pompeii
City of Pompeii
Pompeii was founded in the 7th or 6th century BC by the Oscans of central Italy. It was a busy port city (although today it is about 3km from the shoreline) and an active market place. The city came under Roman control in the 1st century BC when Roman general Sulla claimed it for his army veterans. The Romans moved in and quickly started making architectural and cultural changes including the construction of an amphitheater, bath houses, theaters and temples to Roman gods. By the time of Mount Vesuvius’ eruption the city had grown in size to 20,000 residents.
The eruption
Mount Vesuvius
In 63 AD there was a large earthquake (5 or 6 on the Richter scale) and almost every building in Pompeii was affected with some being destroyed completely. Many people left after this first quake and resettled in other Roman cities while those who stayed began to rebuild but were plagued by minor earthquakes for the next 16 years.
In 79 AD (there is some dispute as to whether it was August or November) there were a series of major earthquakes followed by the eruption of Mount Vesuvius. Large pumice fragments (up to 3 inches in size) began falling on the city followed by fatal sulphurous gases. After 8 – 10 feet of pumice had covered the city a fine, moist ash began to fall. The ash fell for 3 days, suffocating those who breathed it in; in the end Pompeii was covered by 15 – 25 feet of volcanic material. It is estimated that 3/4 of the population died in the eruption. Recently a study of the eruption and its victims indicated that Vesuvius would have given off heat surges of at least 250 degrees celsius which would have caused instant death even if you were inside a building. This is now thought to be a major cause of deaths in Pompeii.
The discovery and excavation
Heart breaking plaster casts in Pompeii's Garden of Fugitives
During the 16th and 17th centuries workmen found relics from Pompeii but did not realize their significance and covered them again. Then, in 1710, a farmer digging a well found Herculaneum (a city also destroyed by Vesuvius) and, when it was rediscovered by workers constructing a summer palace for Charles of Bourbon, excavation began in 1738. Pompeii was discovered soon after and excavations of the city started in 1748.
During the excavation most of the artifacts found at Pompeii were sent to museums but, in the 19th century it was discovered that the moist ash had dried around the bodies of Pompeii citizens creating hollow molds where the bodies had been. Archaeologists began filling the molds with plaster and now have figures which are very detailed, showing facial expressions, posture and clothing. In the 1920s artifacts stopped being removed from Pompeii and the city began being preserved instead. In 1997 the city was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. Today the entire site has been explored with over half having been excavated.
Tourism today
Pompeii is one of Italy’s most popular tourist destinations with 2.6 million visitors in 2008. Unfortunately due to erosion, light exposure, water damage, poor excavating practices, vandalism and over use the site has sustained some damage and is now less accessible to tourism. However, the areas of the city that are open to the public are huge and can take many days to fully explore.
To visit Pompeii you will need to make your way to Naples, Italy (the closest city) and from there take a car, bus or train to site. There are a few companies that can take you on a walking tour of Pompeii (most of which get great reviews) although it is possible to pay the 11 euro ticket price to enter and wander through on your own (maps and audio tours are also available).
This one’s on my list for my eventual month-long tour of Europe but in the meantime if you make it over there make sure to take pictures, I need someone to live vicariously through!
Have you been to Pompeii? Was it amazing? Do you want to go? Will you take me with you?
Pompeii is an amazing place to visit. I do hope that you eventually get to visit the site…it is memorable.
Thanks Karen, it sounds like you’ve been. What was your favourite part?
I loved Pompeii…we visited there in 2003. I was amazed by the very biblical looking pillars of salt so to speak.
Must have been a great trip! There have been many comparisons to Sodom and Gomorrah, especially since the culture in Pompeii seemed to be very open sexually and many pieces of phallic art were found when the site was first excavated. Most of those pieces were spirited away so as not to offend the delicate sensitivities of people at the time.
Amanda and I loved our visit there. We weren`t big fans of Naples, but Pompeii was mesmerizing. You could still see the hand-painted decorations on the walls inside homes.
Wanna see it on the cheap? Google Street View has gone through most of the town so you can click your way through and stare at dead cities and bewildered tourists.
I should have known you two would have gone there! I read about Google Street View but was worried it would ruin me for the real experience, probably a dum dum worry since I doubt Google can do those frescos justice!
I’ve been to Pompeii and yes it is amazing! I really enjoyed the tour because the tour guide explained the history of Pompeii and showed us little parts of the city that you would have noticed unless you went with a guide. For example, the whole city was loud and noisy, except for the town square. He said this is because you can see the horse carriage marks along the roads all over Pompeii, except for the town square. I also found it amazing how the building structures are similar to what we have today – what’s left of it anyway. Hope you make it there, you’ll have fun!
Thanks Christine, I hope I make it too! I was thinking that a tour guide might be the way to go as I’ve heard the maps they hand out can be unreliable and sometimes only available in Italian. Maybe the three day pass makes sense, then you could do Pompeii with a guide one day and alone the next?
One full day was more than enough for us. Amanda and I went with the solo map strategy. We did some studying before we arrived so we knew a lot of the stories and sites that we wanted to see.
The obsessive planner in me loves that strategy! I like to do research and then have as much time as I need (which is usually a lot of time) to look at things rather than being pulled along in a tour, but then the worry wart in me is afraid I’ll miss something if I don’t have someone pointing out the “must see” places.
Have you read Pompeii by Robert Harris? It would make your trip to Pompeii come alive. Another book that makes history “real”. I recommend it.
I haven’t read Pompeii yet but historical fiction is one of my favourites, I will add it to my Goodreads “to be read” shelf! Thanks for the recommendation (and for popping by my blog).
I would LOVE to go to Pompeii! I was in Italy for a short school trip in college (10 days) and we stopped in ancient Rome, and went to the ancient sea port of Ostia Antiqua (which is now practically considered inland).
There is a travelling exhibit on Pompeii and it came here to Boston’s Museum of Science and I made plans to go with my parents (yup, I hang out with my parents) but it was sold out…and now it’s gone. I was so disappointed. And the MoS is literally walking distance from my work…I should have just gone one day after work…
(on the upside, there is going to be a temporary exhibit on Greece coming in the spring, so I’m definitely go to check it out).